You don’t have to be a veteran surfer to recognize the debauchery at Malibu caught on camera this past July 4th. First Point is a right-hand break with machine-like shape and peel, making it a drenched dream for surfers of all types. And for better or worse, our fellow citizens exercised their personal freedom to the fullest on Independence Day.

In devoted patriotic spirit, wave after wave, the Malibu surfers embodied the Revolutionary War motto, “Don’t Tread On Me.” The Gadsen flag was intended to symbolize the values of “individualism” and “freedom,” and, indeed, surfing is not considered a team sport, unfortunately. So, those founding principals were on full display in a new video that documents the results of surfers ignoring the rules, selfishly taking waves from (as well as the safety of) others. It was every man for himself out there (or every woman for herself).

The 43-minute July 4th surf video is aptly titled “Malibu F**k Fest” (posted by “Salty Beards,” which was founded by surfer Nick Rozsa and filmmaker Chris Papaleo). It features clip after clip of a dangerous occurrence found at most surf breaks anymore: multiple people on a single wave. The opening clip shows two surfers colliding, each aimed straight at the other. Either they both played a losing game of “chicken” or neither was skilled enough to divert their surfboard in another direction.

The caption of the video gives a special shout out to “everyone who started surfing in their 30’s over the last 5 years.” In the video, the narrator blames COVID for all the people who learned to surf, or at least started to call themselves surfers, during the pandemic.

As for this past holiday session, he calls it “the biggest cucking I’ve seen in ages” and says it was “an absolute shit show. I can’t believe how many fucking people surf these days. And chicks getting their fucking heads ran over” ( as he plays a clip of just that happening).

As beautiful a human invention as surfing can be, that day puts a spotlight on the ugliest parts. Often three or four people were up on a wave, sometimes five. I counted six at least once, all together within striking distance. 

Boards were flying. 

Surfers with clear priority repeatedly got pushed back into the broken white water by dangerous drop-ins. 

Drop-ins got dropped-in on. And honestly, at times, it’s hard to keep track of who dropped-in first because they’re all so shifty. 

American values were displayed in the July 4th Malibu surf video

It’s tempting to label that behavior as distinctly American, but such carelessness has caused serious injuries around the world. Last fall in the Maldives, a friend sustained a serious gash to her leg when a guy dropped-in on a crowded wave. As she describes it, the surf break was chaotic and the other surfer lacked skill. Worse, because the wave was a boat ride away from land with any sort of medical care, her life was at risk due to blood loss.

It is possible Americans have exported a nasty contagion overseas: gross ego and recklessness. Just as likely, though, these are common human ailments. Yet, they are preventable.

Now, I get it. Throughout life, I’ve often prided myself for being self-sufficient — and there’s hardly any better feeling than catching a good wave and knowing the only reason I caught it was through my own strength and skill — which has taken years to develop. Surfing is difficult. And sometimes I just want to claim that wave as my own.

But to do so, without following the rules and considering the position of surfers around me, is to cheat. That’s not an American value, nor an accomplishment anyone wants to boast.

Practice the individual act of surfing with care (in San Clemente or anywhere)

Surfing is one of those special activities I wish more people could enjoy — and learn from. It’s taught many people the values of patience and clarity and discipline and presence and intuition. But those attributes don’t happen automatically. It requires ongoing practice.

In full disclosure, I’ve had my own surf mishaps, due largely to my lack of skill and knowledge, so I easily could have been one of those cucks in the Malibu video. The worst happened one day when I attempted to surf a spot that was too much for me. I’d been surfing regularly for less than six months and on that day, the forecast was 4-6 feet but it seemed even bigger in reality, with a lot of energy in the water.

As nervous as I was, I told myself to get out of my comfort zone. Sadly, as soon as I started to paddle out, even the white water near shore was strong, pushing me back towards the beach.

As the oncoming waves grew, I attempted to turtle roll under one being ridden by a veteran local. However, my grip wasn’t strong enough, so the board got ripped from my hands. The other surfer never actually saw me until we were in a tangled mess, leashes intertwined, boards flinging, for two solid set waves. I was horrified. I got out of the water and cried for several hours, embarrassed and frightened and humbled by the power of the ocean and my inability to navigate it.

Luckily, the other surfer was incredibly kind. He’s a regular at San Onofre and one of the most positive in the water. He checked his board for dings, made sure I was ok, then paddled back out. 

Nonetheless, I took one big lesson from that day. I promised myself I wouldn’t try to surf beyond my skill set again. Humbly, I even took a few steps backward and spent more time learning the basics in the white water. Additionally, I made an effort to surf places that were less crowded. Over time, I’ve improved. Still not perfect (I gave myself black eyes one time), but stronger all the time. 

I’ve also better learned the rules of surfing. Etiquette in the water is absolutely essential so everyone stays safe and has fun. See what Gerry Lopez has to say about sharing waves in this guide, Vital Surf Tips.

Learn from the best surfers in the world

Another important lesson that I’ve learned: stay positive, not competitive. One day at Old Man’s at San Onofre, I was struggling to catch waves, and was particularly frustrated that I was having to compete with SUP boarders who were encroaching from Dog Patch.

To make matters worse, halfway into the session, a big group of women paddled out. “Great,” I told myself, “more people.” They were all wearing the same type of top so I figured they were with a surf camp (“Even worse,” I thought. “They’re gonna think they have priority over this whole zone”).

However — at the end of my next wave, one of the women beamed at me with glee. She asked how I was doing and had such positive energy, I immediately felt happy to be in the water with them. Her joy was contagious.

It was a transformative moment. The emotion I felt truly was mind over matter. In an instant, I shifted my perspective from negativity and stress about competing for waves to appreciation for being in the water with other friendly people.

Shortly after, I recognized two of the instructors. A couple of clicks later on Instagram and I discovered it was a surf camp, Salty Sensations, hosted by world class surfers: Kassia Meador, Leah Dawson, Makala Harmony Smith, and special guest Andy Nieblas. 

Back at home, I sent an appreciation message, explaining my reaction that day. They responded in-kind:

“Thank you!…Yes, just trying to spread the love for all in the water.”

Learn from your local surf companions

Another time, a complete stranger coached me into a wave. I started to paddle, then backed off, thinking it was too steep. But the man encouraged me, “No, paddle, you got it.” Then, just at the right moment, he yelled, “Now angle the board!” That was the day I learned to angle into steeper waves, meaning my success rate has increased significantly ever since.

Those two incidents were such powerful lessons to understand that we’re all friends in the water, there to help each other, not to compete. It can be easy to forget, struggling to catch waves. But since those experiences, I try to remind myself: “Be thankful you’re here in the ocean enjoying the best of our planet. Be kind. Encourage others. Spread the love.”

Lessons we can learn from the July 4th Malibu surf video — and spread around the globe

Society teaches us to be competitive. Whatever you’re doing, be the best. If you’re not the best, fake it ’til you make it. Do whatever is needed to achieve your goal. Some people are naturally more competitive than others. And sometimes, after floating for long periods on a surf board, even the best of us feel desperate to catch a wave. 

This is a reminder, don’t succumb to that desperation. Let that fuck fest of a video be a learning point. Especially as Americans, we may pride ourselves on being independent and free to do what we want, when we want — but the truth is, we all still need each other. And if you cheat the system while surfing, you’ve actually cheated yourself and lost the game. Remember what this sport teaches when done right: the value of patience, clarity, discipline, presence of mind, and intuition. That’s a gift you can carry from your surf board back into daily life.

Our best advice: Be safe, first of all. Don’t surf in conditions that you can’t handle. Second, have fun. Enjoy the water as well as the possibility of making new friends. And lastly, maybe just maybe, consider a less crowded spot. 

Either way, share the space. Whether you’re catching waves in Malibu, San Clemente, or some other exotic spot on the globe. It will make you a better surfer and, without question, a better human — and, possibly even an admired ambassador for this great country.

Happy (belated) Independence Day, y’all. Surf on!

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